So there I was in a deserted Bar Tabac in St Remy de Provence. It was the type of place that used to typify France - a carpet of cigarettes, a fog of smoke as thick as a 6am pea-souper on the M25, a line of clients at the bar the stub of their Gitanes playing a game of dare with their finger nails, and a happy bubble of voices.
Only this image was from the past. Today there was no-one, not a soul, just a floor smelling of bleach, a rack full of cigarettes for smoking outside - the mistral was blowing so strongly smokers needed to carry a personal beach wind break to light up - and the owner with his head in his hands contemplating how the new non smoking law had slashed his business. 30% down in just a couple of months…he could see no alternative, he was going to have to open a sandwich bar….and no he didn’t want to advertise in my new magazine. Still there was no-one to talk to, so he offered me a free beer and looked genuinely sad when I declined explaining that I couldn’t risk the police drink driving road blocks.
I know its wrong, but I couldn’t help feel a little nostalgic when I left. This used to be France, a country where real men drank litres of pastis and then cornered their Peugeot round hairpins while simultaneously urinating out of the window, fag in their other free hand rather than on the wheel. Ah the glory days…I guess even the over funded French health service can’t afford it anymore. So life has become rather sanitised. I had a coffee with the barman but it wasn’t as much fun.
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2 comments:
I couldn't agree with you more. I really thought that the French would do what they normally do with any directive that they don't like - just ignore it. But when I was over in February (still quite cold outside in the evening) my local bar was empty - even when they showed the France / England rugby match. I was so surprised to see this new law being followed!
Where has the famous French revolutionary spirit gone? And before anyone thinks that I'm a smoker - I'm not!
I guess smokers smoke at home now. I did have to fight my way through a crowd outside the other day, getting through the smokers, to get inside a sports bar in Ansouis. I'm sure it has hurt business at many bars but most places I go seem to be busy. I, for one, love going to a restaurant that is smoke free. I was expecting some sort of revolution too but I think the huge fine owners get sort of put that to a stop.
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